Kaza, Spiti Valley

The Spirit of Spiti

Its hard to describe a land so vast and desolate and yet so rich in culture, color and spirit. The Spiti Valley shares the plateau and its heritage with Mother Tibet. Tibetan Buddhism has been practised here for centuries, and it colors the daily life of the people. The elderly chant "Om Mani Padme Hum" while spinning their prayer wheels. There are monasteries as old as 1500 years dotting the barren valleys with many monks still practising today.

And of course his Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama is the guru if not the celebrity of these people. I had the great fortune to listen to his teachings and be a part of the wild atmosphere when he visited the valley not too long ago. It was truly humbling to be in the presence of a great master and to be a fellow disciple of his with locals and foreigners alike.

With no further adieu I present you with the images that meagerly attempt to portray the glorious dignity of this special land.

The Cham Dance of Kungri

At the monastery of Kungri in the beautiful Pin Valley, the Cham festival was held to a great audience from many valleys. The dance, a form of meditation and an offering to the gods, is performed by monks dressed in exquisite silks and masks. The beat of the drum, the clash of symbals and the bellowing of ancient horns accompanies this ancient ritual of Tantric Buddhism.

Kesang of Kibber

Nestled in the mountains at an altitude of 4205 meters above sea level is the picturesque town of Kibber, where I made myself home for nearly three weeks. Why Kibber? Kesang.

Upon meeting this young woman I was already sure there was something different about her and that we would be great friends. During the cold nights I would stay in the kitchen with her while she cooked for other guests until I eventually became part of the staff. The kitchen became the backdrop for our intimate conversations and gossip and we would talk late into the night over chocolate pancakes!

Transcending cultural differences has always been an aim of mine while on the road. Whether it is with a smile, laughter or a deep meeting. I know the differences between us are only in our minds and what we have manifested from it. For me, knowing her was as much about knowing the women of India and relating that to my place in that same spectrum of womanhood.

Her world is one where women do not have the same freedoms that men do, but moreover it is a world where many people have one face for society and another for themselves.

But Kesang's advice to remedy that situation is simple.

WOMEN SHOULD LIE!!

The Monk Who Died in a Cave

After carbon testing done by a french scientist, it was discovered that the mummified skeleton found in a cave near Tabo, in the remote part of the Spiti Valley, was approximately 545 years old. The mummy was found with its hands tied underneath its knees in an unusual posture of prayer which likely signified that this mummy was a monk who died in meditation.

Perhaps the more miraculous occurrence of this particular mummy is that it still grows hair and fingernails!! Seen as an auspicious sign, the mummy is housed and protected by the military and is a place where one can bring offerings and pray.